My board was Rosewood, but it was about the same level of brown as in that picture when I started. I'll post a shot of the board in my RG8 when I get off work if you want to see what the ink job looks like. Honestly, what I would recommend is to go back over lightly with 0000 steel wool then once over each fret lightly with a dampened rag. I kind of like how they turned out, kind of ghostly-grey looking, but the point is that I was not intending to alter my inlays and I wound up altering my inlays. The OCD-like level of attention I was paying to that dye job was still not enough.Īside from the shenanigans with the neck, the inlays were also an issue as mentioned here. It cleaned up fine with some mineral spirits, but still. I'm not exactly a careless person either, I'm ridiculously attentive to my guitars. I taped off the neck / shoulders / binding of my guitar and a drop or two must have found it's way under that tape, because when I finished with the board and removed the tape there were ink smears alllll over the neck of the guitar. It worked okay, nothing special but it was a major pain in the ass getting it done. Classic ink provides an excellent, dark black to projects. In all honesty, India Ink will give you the blackest most uniform look, it's just a pain to work with and I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what the inlays and binding are made of and how to get the dye out of/off of them. Alternatively, if I need to use it, I'll go back and clean up the inlays with mixed down paint thinner and some micromesh. If I'm working on guitars with minimal/no inlay or binding I'll use India Ink. This will pull some of the dye out, but if you dyed the board it'll still be uniformly black. Compatible with dip pens, brushes, and airbrushes, with good adhesion to most surfaces. This traditional black drawing ink is a deep charcoal shade and is inter-mixable with other Higgins Inks to create custom colors. Lastly, I'll then oil the board with mineral oil. Micro-pulverized pigments are suspended in a professional quality shellac solution to create this waterproof, lightfast ink. I'll do this a few times for a nice even dye job. I brush it on with a foam brush, let it sit for about 10 minutes and wipe away. Now for the dye, I use Fiebings Black, it's nice and forgiving as far as inlays and binding.and hands. This is a 32oz (947.2ml) bottle of Higgins Pigmented Ink - Black India. Brilliant, artist quality colours are a favourite amongst artists and are made in the US. Today, Higgins offers a wide range of pigment and dye based colours as well as specialty white and black inks. This is really best for the wide open spots. Higgins’ inks have been widely used around the world since 1880. Avoid the binding and inlays the best you can. You want to run it with the grain of the wood. Prep the wood surface with micromesh, anything between 20 grit will work. You want to dry out the board so it's more likely to absorb the dye as deeply and evenly as possible. Even if they guitar is new or looks like new. Here's what I do on 90% of guitars that I want the board black:Ĭlean the fretboard really good with some naphtha.
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